Makin It Happen With The Cap'n

This update has been a long time coming. For Halloween 2013 I transformed myself into an over the top Vegas style version of Cap'n Crunch. 

Concept illustration 

With an outfit like this I'll surely be promoted to Admiral in no time!

My feather festooned hat. 

Detail of the sash across the front of the hat.

Detail of the epaulette.
The beaded fringe on these were hand strung by me, because I never have enough to do.

Detailed photo showing the soutache motifs.
There was four pairs of this motif down the front of the jacket, one on each sleeve, each tail and the back of the neck. The fabric is an epic blue sequinned material that I found in the garment district.  I love it because it looks like crashing ocean waves, perfect for an old sea dog like The Cap'n.

Detailed photo of the sleeves.
I made doubly sure to include a total of four stripes to avoid the Cap'n/Commander controversy that the Quaker Oats company recently faced. 

-Philip Estrada

Seasons Greetings from HMBM!

Man did this holiday season ever breeze on by?!  I barely had enough time to think about what to get the loved one, let alone time to shop for him.  I hope he liked what I got him since I can barely remember what it was.

Over here in Blog-blog Land I hope that everyone of my readers had a great time tearing it up with their friends and families for the holidays.  This is why I would like to share the Christmas card Ryan and I sent out to all our pals.  Every year we design our own card and I am particularly proud of this one because I illustrated the card with Ryan's help in art direction.  I have to say I'm impressed with the result since I haven't had much success in the past as a cartoonist!  I guess the spirit of the season inspired me just that much.

All the best from our house to yours and may everyone's New Year be the best one yet!
-Philip

Countless Apologies

First of all I would like to apologize to all of my readers.  

This year I have to cancel Halloween.  

There were so many great opportunities that came up that required my attention and time.  Therefore, Cap'n Crunch will have to be put off until Halloween 2013.  On top of the news of this senseless tragedy, the NY West Village parade is cancelled due to Hurricane Sandy.  This is the first time it will be cancelled in its 39 year history.  I can't help but think that my not having a costume ready had something to do with it.  Again, I apologize for that.

My only hope is now that I have 12 months to work on the Cap'n, I can devote this time to making him replete with majesty and splendor.  Majesty and splendor are code words for sequins, rhinestones and beads.  I'll be piling on as much glamour as my frame can support without being crushed under the weight.

So look forward to updates in the months to come.  I hope everyone can manage to have a Happy Halloween despite this devastating news.

-Philip Estrada

Halloween 2012

Alert the media!  I have begun development on my Halloween costume for this year.  If you follow the Facebook page you've already seen a few pictures and may have guessed my plans.  I am here today though to put all the rumors to rest and make my formal announcement. 

I present to you ladies and gentlemen of the press... Cap'n Crunch!

You and the Cap'n will indeed make it happ'n!

This seafaring master of the high Cereal Seas will be decked out in his best Bob Mackie inspired finery.  His regal hat will tower above him like a Jubilee! headdress festooned with as many feathers as I can cram in there.  The entire ensemble will be encrusted with cobalt blue sequins and details of gold.

Stay tuned as I will be posting more updates along with my progress!
I would love to know what you all think.

-Philip

Not Ashamed Of My Super Fan Status

Shamelessly I proclaim to you, "I am a SUPER FAN!"  Super Fan of what you ask?  Well Mr. Bob Mackie is a given, after all let's not forget the blog's namesake.  Second to him, I am an insane frothing at the mouth type fan of his masterpiece Jubilee!  I am constantly researching that show and finding new references, photos and even blog entries from cast members!

Since I'm a super-pooper-duper obsessed fan it's only natural that I would be doing my own fan art.  This one is inspired by the artwork used to advertise the shows running at The Moulin Rouge in Paris.  I feel like a preteen obsessively drawing versions of my favorite X-men characters... and I love it!  I'll try my best to avoid Jubilee! fan fiction, God only knows how weird that would get.

-Philip Estrada

A Love Letter to the Cast and Crew of Jubilee!

Tonight I will be going to see Jubilee! again.  I have been enamored with these ladies ever since I first saw them descend the glittering staircase in their towering Bob Mackie headdresses.  Please allow me the chance to express my admiration in the best way I know how. 

I present "My Heart," a gift to all the showgirls, showboys, and crew.   Nothing like a little fan art to clearly express just how much I love this show!

I hope Jubilee! continues to be a Las Vegas institution for as long as there is a Las Vegas.

-Philip Estrada

Eliza Doolittle

This gown was inspired by the Embassy Ball scene in “My Fair Lady.”  Rather than designing for the period the musical was set in I opted to be inspired by it instead.  The gown maintains the original intent of the scene but has a sexy contemporary feeling.  The front of the gown will have a dramatically low cut front with a sheer mesh panel.  The bodice of the gown will be encrusted with various sized rhinestones, white sequins and beads that trickle down loosely.  The shape of the gown will be fitted on the front with beautifully draped fullness at the back that transitions into the train.  I want the gown to be dramatically full but it will be constructed so that it doesn't appear shapeless. 

I originally started this just as a study of a Bob Mackie sketch as practice since I liked the pose.  The sketch was coming out pretty awesome so I took it and ran with it.  I had the idea for this gown as an option for a friend’s wedding that is coming up in December.  Although the design would be my own pipe dream I felt as though if I didn’t get it down on paper now I never would.  After the sketch was finished in pencil I scanned it into photoshop to clean it up and add color.  I feel the result looks pretty great!

Can you guess which Bob Mackie sketch was the original inspiration?

-Philip Estrada

Showgirls on the Brain

I just can't stop sketching showgirls!  Those Jubilee! ladies have infected my noodle.  Don't get it twisted though... I am NOT complaining.  I've waxed poetic before about how amazing those over the top Mackie designs are so I'll keep it more brief this time.  The Bob Mackie showgirls may be some of his most mind blowing works ever.  I've been studying the sketches and photos of the costumes at length.  I feel it has inspired me to design without limitations while always maintaining a level of beauty and timeless style.

Here are a few sketches I have done inspired by the Bob Mackie clad ladies of Jubilee!  Hope you enjoy!

-Philip Estrada

Inspiration - Downton Abbey

Downton Abbey season 2 premiered on PBS last night and I was more than excited to sit down and watch the 2 hour special!  Leading up to the premier I was recounting the first season and all the beautiful clothing that swept across the screen leaving me breathless. 

One of my favorite things about season 1 was how it began with the news of the sinking of the Titanic.  My mind started its journey from there and I began thinking about the Titanic and its sinking, after all, this year marks the 100th anniversary of the fateful event.  When I think about the Titanic, I also recall the scene in Jubilee!  They showed the passengers arrive to the pier in full high fashion as well as the sinking, right on stage.  It was pretty awesome!
With all this fabulocity clanging around my noodle my hands got to sketching.  This fancy gal is what I came up with. 

Meet Diannis Moorepark.  She has arrived, dressed to the nines in her rhinestone encrusted jacket.  She doesn't seem pleased having to wait to board the Titanic and go to her First Class stateroom.  Let's hope she arrives in New York safe and sound.

-Philip Estrada

Speakeasy Jazz Baby

A sketch I did of a Speakeasy Jazzbaby.  Simply put, I want to make this!  I'm thinking Navy and Pewter.  How Mackie is that fur cacoon coat?  Nothing like Navy fox fur to get your motor running... sweet sweet Navy Fox Fur.

-Philip Estrada

Halloween 2011

Halloween 2011 was a raging success!!  Our Gender Bent Wizard of Oz cast was the toast of New York! 

Being the wicked witch was so much fun!  Just as fun was making this spectacular costume!  The original inspiration was Bob Mackie's Vegas Masterpiece: Jubilee!  I feel the effect was successful since it was difficult to keep myself from dancing around like one of those epic ladies! 
There is no greater satisfaction as a designer than stepping back from a project and honestly being impressed with yourself.  It's not an arrogant feeling, more like a geniune surprise at what you're capable when you allow yourself to get carried away.  I want everything I make from now on to be on this level.  I raised the bar, now I must live up to my own standard.

A detailed photo inspired by Unmistakably Mackie.

The original sketch...It turned out pretty good, if I don't mind saying so myself.

Now I need to figure out what my next project will be... any suggestions?  Maybe Bob Mackie has a project in mind for me?  I'll be anxiously awaiting my orders Mr. Mackie!

-Philip Estrada

Prom Gown - Photoshoot

Hello Everybody!  Boy have I been a busy little beaver!  Over the weekend I threw together a quick photoshoot to document the gown I made my niece for her Senior Prom.  Even though it was last minute the finished product shows no evidence of it.  I guess it helps when you are collaborating with some great people!  I hope you enjoy the fruits of our labor.

Hair - Prissy Daugherty

Photo - Jason Kip Photography

The original concept sketch

We actually ended up shooting the stairwell of my office building.  I was shocked to find that the doors to the lobby were hiding such a beautiful setting.  It really sets the tone for the gown since it was inspired by a more glamorous era.

- Philip Estrada

Sketchy Lady

I was sketching today and this lovely lady came to me.  I have a pretty large bag of big sew-on rhinestones at home and they need to be used up.  Maybe I'll make a "nude illusion" gown that Bob Mackie is famous for.  It could be encrusted with strategically placed crystals with a super dramatic white fur stole.  Great for the gal on the go.  She's giving me visions of Marlene Dietrich during her stage act days and I loving it!

What do you guys and gals think?

- Philip Estrada

Lederhosen

I was sketching out ideas for Halloween.  Since I'll be the Wicked Witch the BF is gonna be a Male version of Dorothy.  We decided on blue gingham lederhson.  Here is a quick sketch I did in my notebook.... more to come!

-Philip Estrada

I Know It's Early

I realize Halloween is a few months away but lets face it, time gets away from us very easily!   Therefore in order to outdo my costume from last year I've already done some strategizing and sketching.  

The plan this year is to do an ensemble costume of the cast of "The Wizard of Oz."  Seems simple enough but here is the twist!  Each character's gender will be switched and the costumes will be redesigned and pushed to the limit!  

I shall be a male version of the Wicked Witch of the West!  I designed a 1920s cutaway tuxedo jacket with tails extended to the floor.  The sleeves and front panels would be accented by shiny emerald lurex embroidery in vine motifs (I can do some pretty cool stitches on my sewing machine).  Underneath would be an emerald encrusted double breasted vest.  The cravat would be super frilly and be made of a black iridescent fabric with green undertones.  I would sew sequins with beads spaced evenly on the fabric.  The whole thing would be topped off by a black top hat with an emerald sash.  The whole look will come together with my broom that I will be carrying.  That was the original plan, but then something happened...

... The Jubilee Backstage Tour.  After seeing all those beautiful Bob Mackie costumes inches from my face I had an epiphany.  I must, at all cost even death, push my designs to the level of artwork like the costumes of Jubilee.  That experience has been one of the most inspiring things I ever had the benefit of experiencing so intimately. 

The original concept of the costume is remaining much the same, but now the embellishment will be pushed beyond anything I have attempted thus far.  The cuffs are now going to be encrusted in bugle beads and black cup sequins.  The cuffs will extend past the sleeve and emerald and raven color feathers will be inserted into the ends to reference the wings of the Wicked Witch's flying monkies.  The vest will still be encrusted in emeralds, which I'm greatly looking forward to.  The embroidery on the jacket will now be accented with raven black seed beads and wonderful brunished green sequins I found.  They have a matt oil slick quality to them with flecks of yellow and black in them.  I plan on sprinkling the sequins and beads along the embroidery randomly to give it an organic and etherial feeling.  The hat will now have a mass of plumage pouring from it in coordinating emerald and raven colors.  Luckily I found a trim store in the fashion district that has an amazing selection and variety of feathers and I've already begun stocking up.

I think this is going to be a wonderful Mackie-esque Halloween.  I hope you enjoy my sketches, and I will be sure to post many updates of my progress!

-Philip Estrada

Princess of Power

Halloween is my favorite holiday of all.  There's is nothing like it.  Last year in particular was one of the most fun Halloweens ever!  Not only do I enjoy myself celebrating the holiday but I also enjoy preparing for the day itself.  My boyfriend and I brainstormed about what duo we could dress as and we finally settled on Super Mario and his lady-friend Princess Toadstool (I was the princess since he called Mario in lightning speed).  Being that I'm an overachiever I couldn't settle with just recreating the character.  I had to redesign the beloved friends pushing them to the hilt.  I also had to bare in mind that they still had to be recognizable.

The fun thing about Princess Toadstool is just that.  She's a PRINCESS!  Just admit it... everyone secretly wants to dress like a princess.  Even for just one day.

Above is the working sketch of the jacket/vest combo for my princess outfit.  I wanted a turn of the century fiddle back with over sized puffed sleeves and lapels to match the over sized skirt.

Bringing this character to life was one of the most enjoyable things I have gotten to do in a long time.  It was truly wonderful to see her through from the sketch to the finished product.  I have had the opportunity to make a couple of wedding gowns and prom dresses but nothing compares to the sheer scale of this gown.  From the hoop skirt to the complex over skirt and the elaborate jacket, this ensemble had a lot of love and work put into it.  I relished every moment and look forward to topping it this year.

-Philip Estrada

Simply Red

This illustration was submitted for a concept and presentation class project back in college.  The class was basically a sculpture class to help one think "outside of the box".  The assignment was to "illustrate a book."  How we chose to do that and which book was entirely up to us.  I was already accepted into the Fashion Design Department at that time so I submitted high fashion paper dolls as my "sculpture". 

The book I illustrated was the play 'Titus Andronicus' by William Shakespeare.  Honestly I was obsessed with Julie Taymore's movie "Titus" so I redesigned costumes for all the characters.  This is Tamora: Queen of the Goths.  How epic would this look on stage? 

This costume would be for the scene in which she delivers an astounding soliloquy where she swears her revenge on Titus and his family during the celebration of her marriage to the new emperor.  The powerful and bold red color would match the tone of the speech.  The bold jewelry, hair style and tribal tattooing makes reference to her old life as queen of a "barbaric" people.

When Mr. Mackie takes on another costume design job I would love to be right there beside him along the way.  I could research costume history, swatch fabrics, scan sketches into photoshop for digital corrections, go on coffee runs; my uses are endless!

I look forward to getting started!

-Philip Estrada

Inspired by the 20s

This lovely sketch was inspired by the roaring cocktail parties of the 1920s.  I've always been preoccupied by this era.  I draw a lot from the creativity, artists and designers of the art deco movement.  Erte and J.C. Leyendecker are just a couple of examples of such inspiration to emerge from that period.  Some of the most beautiful movies are set in the 1920s like, "The Great Gatsby", "Thoroughly Modern Millie", "The Cotton Club" to name a few. 

This ensemble could be a one piece cocktail dress or a tunic and skirt set.  The top would look amazing in Pewter colored silk with gold, shaped panels applied in the sun burst motif.  The Gold panels will then be encrusted with shiny antique brass beads.  The red contrast panel would be inset and decorated with additional brass beads.  The skirt would be finely pleated black silk satin and hit just at the knees.  This approach would easily allow one to roll your stockings down to apply a little rouge!

- Philip Estrada

An Inspired Wandering Mind

My mind was wandering a bit today.  I find in these instances it's best to put pencil to paper and see where it takes you.  In this case, all I had was a pen and a little notebook, so please excuse the writing lines.  I got to thinking about how pretty a graphic pattern would look if it were made of small flat sequins on sheer mesh.  Picture a design that looks like crashing waves going every which direction.  The effect is awesome and has a lot of movement.

How amazing would this look in flesh colored mesh with the sequins in navy and midnight blue? Imagine within the design mixing matte and shiny finishes?  Ugh... to die for!

I could see Kim Kardashian wearing this to the MTV Music Awards or Christina Hendricks rocking every inch of this at the Golden Globes.

The wonderful thing about this technique is that it could easily be applied to ready to wear as well. A navy silk voile dolman sleeve top with a sheer back with the sequin motif all over the front panel would look stunning!  It would look very sexy with some super skinny jeans and a sexy platform heel.  One could easily design a whole group of separates around this gown.

An example of Navy Sequins used in casual separates

-Philip Estrada

God Save the Queen... the Prom Queen

This is a Punk Rock Prom Dress that I was commissioned to design and make along with my good friend Jennifer Daugherty.  The inspiration we were given was, and I quote, "I want a punk rock prom dress with a corset top."  Helpful... I know. 

The bustier is emblazoned with the British Union Jack across the front.  Careful attention was paid to the detail of the flag when working out the design.  The authenticity was the paramount concern.  The stripes were top applied using self fabric to each pattern piece then the bustier was sewn together.  Matching the stripes was no easy task.  The back of the bustier features a chunky silver zipper with white zipper tape to play up the British Punk Rock feel.  The over-skirt is a red taffeta pleated bunting that sweeps around to the back.  The elegant feel juxtaposes the Punk inspiration behind the gown wonderfully.  Never fear though as the front of the dress is completely open to show off her legs and causes scandal to spare.  

This is just one of the many examples of how I interpret a customers vision and make the most innovative design possible.

-Philip Estrada